Winter Honeysuckle

Native versus non-native plants. I don't know why but I have thought for as long as I can remember that Lonicera fragrantissima (winter honeysuckle) was a native plant (to North America) but it is native to China (I think). I have heard for some time that this plant is on some groups watch list as a potential invasive plant. Despite the fact that its not native and may be invasive I sure would miss this wonderfully fragrant plant. It greets me every winter day from December til April as I walk up to the front door of my workplace (the Birmingham Botanical Gardens).

I know it is extremely drought tolerant because I had some in some gallon pots that I forgot about. They went uncared for and unwatered for two years. When I found them they had no potting soil left in the pot - just a mass of roots. I planted them last year before the worst drought in my lifetime and watered them once. I looked at them today and they look great (maybe this is why they are thought to be potentially invasive).

Fig Propagation

Question: I have a wonderful fig tree in my yard that I want to take with me when I move but it is much too large to move – any suggestions?

Answer: Figs are easy to propagate because they root very easily. There are several ways to propagate them. The most common method is to root cuttings taken in late winter or early spring so now is a great time.

Take cuttings about 6 inches long and pencil to finger thick. If the weather is still unsettled and frost is likely, store the cuttings in a sealed zippered bag in the produce bin in your refrigerator. However, if the weather is warm and likely to stay warm, pot your cuttings. Place a half sheet of newspaper tightly into the bottom of a 4 or 6 inch-deep plastic pot. Put a little sand or a good-quality potting mix in the bottom of the pot, then stand one to four cuttings upright in the pot, and fill the pot the rest of the way with more sand or potting mix.

Water the pot thoroughly, and set it in a very bright but not a direct sun location. It should be warm--at least 70 degrees F. If you cannot keep the air temperature above 70, provide bottom heat to bring the soil temperature up. Cover the pot with an empty 2- or 3-liter soft drink bottle with the lid on and the bottom cut out. Do not water the cuttings again until they are very dry. Lift the pot occasionally to test for dryness. If the pot is very light, set it in a pan of water, and let it soak. When you see vigorous growth, it is time to harden off the new plants. Remove the bottle cap, and see how the plants do. If the plants look to be thriving after a few days, remove the bottle. If the plants begin to wilt, cover them again with the bottle.

After a few days, it will be time to pot up the new plants. Don't do this just because you see leaves growing. Sometimes there will be four or five leaves and few if any roots. Wait until you see vigorous growth. Pot the plants in individual plastic pots (1 gallon size), and apply a light application of liquid fertilizer. In 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the vigor of the variety and the weather, the plants will be ready either for a larger pot or for in-ground planting. When you plant them in the ground keep them well watered until they have rooted in very well. This usually takes one summer of careful attention. A 2 or 3 inch layer of mulch will help the new plants conserve moisture, keep the new roots cooler and provide cold protection in the winter.

Figs are a fun and easy fruit plant to grow in our area. They are cold sensitive to temperatures in the teens or below but will usually come back from the root if well established. They are interesting fruit because they do not require pollination at all to produce their delicious fruit. One plant is likely all you will need unless you want to make a winters supply of fig preserves. Because they produce fruit parthenocarpically (without pollination) they tend to fall off easily under stress. In our area the stress is usually a drought during fruit enlargement. You may want to place a soaker hose around the plant and give it a weekly soaking while the fruit are maturing.

For more information visit the following web sites: www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1145/ or http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1353.htm

Mistletoe species in the Southeast U.S.

Question:
I read an article about mistletoe and I am doing a project for Organismal Biology and I was wondering if you could tell me where/how I can find out how many species and what species of mistletoe are located here in Auburn Alabama?

Answer:

That question is so simple I think I will let my driver answer it (just kidding). Here is the answer I got from Curtis J. Hansen, Curator Freeman Herbarium, Auburn University:

Yes, I'd be glad to answer that! There is primarily only one species of mistletoe that dominates the eastern United States and grows from New York to Florida and west to Arizona-- that is Oak Mistletoe, or scientifically speaking, Phoradendron leucarpum. There is only one other species in the southeastern US (east of Texas) called Mahogany Mistletoe that is found very rarely in Florida. The center of distribution (where the most diverse number of species are found) for mistletoe is western North America, from Canada in the north and down into the western US extending east to Texas. There are about 34 different species of mistletoe (from three different genera) found in the western US and Canada. In addition, there are 6 endemic (found only in a particular area) mistletoes found in Hawaii. Mistletoe species in the genus Arceuthobium, commonly called Dwarf Mistletoes, are pests and cause tremendous losses and reduced productivity in the timber industry in the western US.
All mistletoes are parasitic, meaning they grow their root systems into a host tree and "steal" nutrients for growth. However, they are also green, so they can produce some of their own nutrients through photosynthesis. While most mistletoes don't outright kill their tree-host, they can weaken them over time and ultimately be the cause of tree death. The genus found in our area, Phoradendron, means "tree thief" in Greek--an appropriate name for a parasitic plant.
As far as locating mistletoe in Auburn goes, it's pretty easy. All one has to do is go out side and scan the surrounding hardwood trees and you'll find clumps of greenish-looking "bushes" among tree branches. That's mistletoe. As the name indicates, Oak mistletoe is found mostly in oak trees, but may also be found in other hardwoods. This particular species isn't known to grow in pines or conifers in our area. Mistletoes are particularly easy to spot at this time of year (winter)when the leaves of the hardwood trees have fallen. In fact, you can still find many plants in full fruit with little white berries, for female plants and male plants that are in full flower, the flowers are very small. There are separate female and male plants in this species.

Herbs and Bees

A gardener asked the following question: “I want to include herbs in my garden and need to know more about requirements for growing them. I’m also interested in attracting pollinators, especially honeybees. Which herbs will provide food or habitat for them?”

Answer: With spring fast approaching, honeybee populations in decline, and herbs gaining status with a variety of gardeners, this is a very pertinent question.

I asked Sallie Lee, Jefferson County Extension Agent to respond, as she works with Jefferson County Beekeepers and is involved with an heirloom herb garden project in Birmingham.

She replied: “Tony, to simplify the question, let’s break the answer into two parts, one to address the herbs, one for the honeybees”.

Herbs have many attributes that contribute to their increasing popularity in gardens and landscapes. Their historic use, from primarily culinary and medicinal, to the 21st century has expanded the role of herbs. Today, we grow herbs (or “’erbs”) for aesthetic reasons, for use in cooking (culinary), as medicinal, aromatics, ornamentals, household/industrial, and wildlife habitat.

Herbs are considered one of the easiest groups of plants to grow, and once established, most are considered low maintenance; they do very well with little water or fertilizer.

Requirements for growing herbs, regardless of reason, need to be considered before planting them in the ground. And, while herbs are adaptable to a range of soil and growing conditions, most don’t do well in poorly drained soil. Another limiting factor is the amount of sun available to them; if the site receives less than 6-8 hours of sun a day, look for another site or consider herbs that can handle light shade.
The sun/shade factor is especially important for pollinators, including honeybees, since most of them are attracted to plants that flower in full sun conditions.

Another factor to consider is soil; heavy clay is a challenging environment for most herbs. Make their life easier and more productive by planting herbs in raised beds or amending existing soil with well-composted organic matter to improve its porosity.

Herbs are a solution to the need expressed by many beekeepers; to increase nectar availability in an area. Herbs are versatile, blooming the same year they’re planted in many cases. With sufficient variety, an herb garden can have plants in bloom 10 months of the year, providing nectar and pollen sources for honeybees. However, not all herbs attract honeybees, so gardeners should pay attention to variety. Herbs such as basil, bee balm, hyssop (anise), mints, sage, and thyme are examples of bee favorites.

Designing an herb garden is similar to other gardens; segregate tall growing plants such as bee balm from low spreading herbs like thyme to minimize unwanted shading.
Perennial herbs should be the focus of the garden as they will last for years without being replaced, although annuals can be used as fillers where appropriate.

Attracting wildlife, in this case a very special pollinator, takes a little extra work, but the effort is worth it when you see and hear the hum of honey bees visiting your herbs.

For additional information, pull up the following Alabama Cooperative Extension publication, “Growing Herbs”.

Bamboo Control

Question: How do I control run away bamboo in my yard?

Answer:
Bamboo is one of the most difficult invasive plants to control once established. The wrong type bamboo can take over landscapes, stream banks, and woodlands.

There are many species of bamboo sold in the nursery trade, some are more invasive than others. Creeping types are, as a rule, very invasive once established. There are clump-type bamboos that spread at a much slower rate. For most homeowners this is the most responsible choice. You may avoid control problems down the road and your neighbors won’t be so upset. These clump-type bamboos can be removed by digging up the offending plants. Unfortunately, some of the more popular types of bamboo sold in the nursery industry are the more invasive, spreading types. These plants spread by thick, tough, underground stems (rhizomes). The rhizomes are resilient to tough environmental conditions and most herbicides.

To control such aggressive plants you must eradicate or contain the entire infestation. Treating only a part of the infestation will be doomed to failure because bamboo can re-establish rapidly. Also, bamboo control programs will require an intensive control strategy over several years.

Containment of creeping types of bamboo is possible, because the rhizomes are typically fairly shallow (less than one foot deep in the soil), but difficult because they can grow over the top of barriers. Barriers made of concrete, metal, plastic, or pressure-treated wood should be installed at least 18 inches deep. Inspect the barrier once or twice a year and remove any rhizomes that are visible.

To control, start with physically removing as much of the rhizome and root mass as possible. It will be impossible to remove all pieces; therefore, follow-up treatment with herbicides will generally be required. Few herbicides are effective on bamboo. The only treatment regime that has been proven to work are winter applications of diclobenil(Casoron or Barrier) combined with summer spot sprays with glyphosate (Roundup). Diclobenil will kill many of the rhizomes and prevent others from re-establishing through early summer. After that time new sprouts will emerge and must be controlled to prevent re-establishment. Reapply glyphosate whenever new growth is present. It will take at least two years of this regime to get good control. In that time you will not be able to plant herbaceous ornamentals, hemlocks, or many other shrubs in that area because diclobenil can kill these ornamental species. If the bamboo is growing in plant beds where these herbicides cannot be used, remember bamboo is a grass and can be suppressed with selective grass controlling herbicides. Always check chemical labels to make certain the product can be used as you intend.

A non-chemical option is to put the entire infestation into turf for several years. Bamboo does not tolerate frequent mowing. Remember, regardless of which method of control you choose, an intensive effort over multiple years will be required to completely eradicate bamboo. Therefore, spend a little extra time researching which ornamental bamboos are best for your yard.

Much of the information in this blog came from an NC State article by Dr. Joseph C. Neal, Weed Scientist Department of Horticultural Science. You may also read another good publication on this subject from the University of Florida by Jason Ferrell, Mark Czarnota, and Ken Langeland (who took the picture above)

Stevia

Question: My new year’s resolution was to loose some weight and I have heard there is an herb that can be used as a sugar substitute. Since sweets are my weakness I am looking for a natural sugar substitute. Do you know what the name of this herb is and how can I grow my own sugar substitute?

Answer: There have been few botanical discoveries quite as dramatic as the realization that the leaves of a species of herb called, Stevia rebaudiana, are intensely sweet. Stevia plants are perennial plants native to Paraguay that include over 150 different species. However, this particular species is an anomaly, since none of the other species in this North and South American genus produce these sweet compounds at high concentrations. Stevia sometimes called “sweet leaf or candyleaf” is considered by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to be an unapproved food additive. It is approved by the FDA only as a dietary supplement. There is conflicting research on the safety of this herb and you should research carefully before using any herbal product.
Because they are commercially unprofitable, relatively few highly sweet plant components have been developed as sugar substitutes. However, due to the interest in natural products, the discovery that this stevia plant has naturally occurring sweetness has attracted great interest. Stevia and stevioside, an extract of stevia, have a menthol-like, bitter aftertaste that limits their usefulness. However, they have been used for years as sweeteners in South America, Asia, Japan, China and some European countries.
For many centuries native Paraguayans have used stevia as a sweetener in herbal and medicinal teas. As mentioned, stevia cannot be sold and advertised as a sweetener but it is available as stevioside extract and can be purchased at most health food stores. The first thing to remember is that stevia is sweet but not exactly like sugar. All this sweetness comes from the leaves of a rather homely little plant that at maturity can be up to 18 inches tall and as wide. It’s a perennial herb that won’t tolerate freezing temperatures. Therefore, grow it as a houseplant or treat it as a tender annual that’s set out after all danger of frost is past. Bear in mind that temperatures can affect the sweetness. The stevia leaves will be sweeter as the temperatures increase throughout the summer.
Stevia is can be grown from seed, but is more easily rooted or it may be purchased as a small plant in the herb or perennial section of the garden center. Your small plants will start slow, much like a pepper plant or okra which requires hot weather to grow well. They need a good rich soil, full sun, warm air, and just enough water to keep the growing medium evenly moist. They’ll be quick to drown if you over water and equally quick to die if you let the soil dry out completely. If you are more interested in the sweet leaves you should remove the small white flowers that appear in summer. They are heavy users of nutrients and should be fertilized regularly or use a slow release fertilizer at planting. They may occasionally be attacked by aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites, so keep an eye peeled. If you catch the pest early a strong stream of water may be all that is needed or use a little insecticidal soap as directed on the label.
Use stevia leaves fresh or dry them for storage by placing them in single layers between paper towels set in a warm place for a week or so or dry them in a dehydrator. Then use a spice grinder to reduce them to powder. It may not solve your sweet tooth problem but you are bound to burn a few calories while working in the garden.

Note: See this publication from which much of this information was derived. Thanks to Georgia Jones, Extension Food Specialist at the University of Nebraska.

Drip Irrigation

Question: I want to install a landscape at my new home but am very worried about the water shortage. What tips can you give to increase my chance of success?

Answer: The first suggestion would be to plant as soon as possible. In our area we can plant woody plants all winter if the ground is not frozen. The plant roots will start to grow and establish before the plant top growth occurs and before the stress of a hot summer.

Second, I would encourage you to consider using a low volume irrigation system. Low volume irrigation unlike sprinklers puts the water in a small area near the plant. Sprinklers are very wasteful because they water the entire surface area and much of the water either runs off or evaporates. Low volume methods work by placing emitters in a flexible tube near the base of newly planted trees and shrubs. (picture at right is from the University of Texas publication on "Low Volume Irrigation")

The primary design goal of a low volume system is to apply water to a uniform soil depth. Water is delivered at or below the surface of the planted area exactly where it is needed. For new landscapes the emitter should be placed directly over the edge of the root ball of the newly installed plants. This will keep the root ball moist while encouraging new roots to develop in the native soil. For larger plants you may need two or more emitters to insure the root ball maintains adequate moisture.

These systems are not difficult to install and remind me of playing with tinker toys as a kid. The most critical part of installation is making sure you reduce the pressure before the water enters the drip tubes and provide a screen filter in-line to avoid stopping up the small holes in the emitters. It is very important to periodically check the emitters to make sure they do not get stopped up. Unlike sprinklers which are highly visible you can’t really tell if emitters are working unless you inspect them while they are operating.

I have often been asked why can’t I just punch or drill a small hole in a water line near the plant rather than buying emitters. The answer is simple. These small holes would not distribute the water evenly, the water would come out too fast, and the hole would get larger over time. Emitters are designed to put out very slowly at rates from ½ to up to 2 gallons per hour. If your soil is a very heavy clay soil you would want a very low rate emitter and if it is sandy you could use the higher rates. If you use a high rate emitter on a heavy or hard soil the water will pool on the surface and run off the target area.

I know many municipalities tell their customers to do hand watering only during times of water shortages but low volume drip irrigation is even more water conserving then hand watering. Generally speaking when people do hand watering on new plants they water a larger area than necessary, water is applied too quickly causing runoff, and some water evaporates before reaching the ground. Also, who’s going to know if the water is on if it is below the surface. I am not encouraging wasteful use of water but I believe this is even more water conserving than hand watering and I would not feel the least bit guilty for using this method in lieu of hand watering. Just make sure you are using a timer so that the system only runs a prescribed amount of time. I made the mistake of leaving mine running without a timer several years ago and floated my plants out of the ground after a couple days. To learn more you may watch a short training video for gardeners at Texas Earth Kind web site and choose the "Low Volume Irrigation" tab.