Saving Water Can Help Your Lawn and Landscape

Even though watering restrictions are not yet commonplace
throughout Alabama, homeowners should still take measures to conserve water. I have seen more plants killed by overwatering
than under-watering. Overwatering does more than deplete the water supply and our bank account; it also makes plants more prone to pests, more drought sensitive and adds to our collective stormwater runoff problem. Stormwater runoff pollutes our streams and
lakes by moving fertilizers, soil and chemicals into the waterways.

By choosing and operating a watering system correctly, you can reduce water bills, insect and disease problems, make grass or shrubs more drought tolerant and reduce maintenance requirements. To maintain a healthy lawn in sandy soils may require as much as 2" of water per week during peak growing season but in most soils 1” per week is sufficient. The more you
water your lawn, the faster it grows and the more it needs to be mowed. Warm season grasses are generally very drought tolerant and will simply go dormant during a drought if the roots are trained to grow deep. You train deep roots by watering infrequently but deeply after initial establishment. Many irrigation systems are set to run three times or more per week and those lawns lose a lot of water to evaporation and encourage shallow root development. Many
homeowners feel compelled to run the irrigation even if the lawn does not need the water because they feel it justifies the initial expense of the system. However, we should think of the
irrigation system as insurance or maybe like a vitamin. Our body needs vitamins but we can get too much of a good thing and cause other problems. We also like insurance but mostly we like having the peace of mind it gives us and we are not anxious to use it -especially life insurance.

What’s true for turf is even more true for established trees and shrubs which may require less than half as much water as an established turf. In most years we get enough rainfall for well-established trees and shrubs and they do not need regular irrigation. If you have thirsty plants like hydrangeas, azaleas or dogwoods low volume drip or micro-sprinklers are a much more efficient way to water than solid set sprinkler systems.

To save water don’t rely too heavily on these thirsty landscape plants but choose mostly water efficient and drought tolerant plants, including tough heirloom shrubs, trees and the sturdier native plants. If you group plants according to their water needs (called a hydrozone), you can simplify watering methods and systems. For example, turf areas and shrub areas should always be separated into different hydrozones. They do not need the same amount or frequency of water. Enclose trees and shrubs into large mulched beds rather than small rings or worse no
rings surrounded by turf. For turf areas, install a rain shutoff device or soil moisture sensor (if you have an automatic sprinkler system) that will override the system when it rains or when the soil reaches a preset moisture level. Your county’s Extension office, the Natural Resources Conservation Service or a certified irrigation professional can provide technical assistance. Except for the first couple years of establishment time you do not need permanent irrigation for most shrub and tree beds. Flowers and thirsty shrubs are the exception and should be watered on an as needed basis rather than on a regular schedule like turf.

Water turf in the early morning from 4:00 am to 7 am. This is the most efficient time because
temperature and wind speeds are usually at their lowest, this in turn reduces evaporation and, more importantly, off target drift. Also, grasses are less susceptible to fungal problems if water is applied at the time that dew normally forms. Avoid watering between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. temperature and wind speeds are at their highest during this time so water waste is more likely. Do not continue to water during the winter months.In most years you can turn the system off and drain it in November and leave it off till late spring. An exception would be the year of establishment.

Lastly, calibrate your sprinkler system regularly. Make sure it is putting out water evenly over
the entire area. Also, look for broken or leaky sprinkler heads. Sometimes what you think is a leaky sprinkler head is really low head drainage. If you are on a slope water will run to the
lowest head and drain from the pipe. You can stop this problem by installing heads with built in check valves or by adding check valves under existing sprinkler heads.

There are many ways to save water and reduce stormwater runoff. Visit the Alabama Cooperative
Extension System website and look at the Alabama Smart Yards Handbook for more good tips. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1359/ANR-1359.pdf

Rain gardens offer a low tech solution for excess rain water

Question: The rain barrel I installed this summer seems very small in view of the large quantities of rain we have gotten. What other strategies can I use to reduce the water runoff from my property?

Answer: Rain barrels or cisterns have their place in water management, but as you have seen they are totally inadequate alone to deal with large amounts of rainfall. There are several ways to deal with excess rain, but clearly the way we do it now in urban areas does not work very well. We have large areas of impervious surfaces and we direct water into storm water systems that often become overwhelmed. What if every home, apartment complex, business or neighborhood could capture the first inch or so of rainfall in any rain event? I believe this could be done and would go a long way towards reducing storm water and associated non-point source pollution problems.

Rain gardens are an old idea whose time has come again. Let’s face facts. We in the southeast live in a climate where we always have and always will have a feast or famine of rainfall. Even those with a short term memory can recall the severe drought of 2007. However, those of us with better memories and a few years behind us knew the day would come when flooding would be a problem again. Rain gardens offer a low tech and low cost way of slowing down water, letting it infiltrate rather than contribute to the storm water problem and reducing the amount of non-point pollution that enters our streams and rivers.

Simply speaking a rain garden is a depression or swale in the landscape designed to capture and retain runoff for short periods of time. If designed properly rain gardens should drain in three days or less and provide a way to direct overflow in periods of continual rainfall such as we have recently experienced in much of the southeast. Rain gardens can and should be a landscape asset both in terms of function and beauty. Ideally they should be located several feet away from the home to avoid contributing to water related problems in the basement or foundation. Water that currently runs off the house, walks, parking areas and driveways should be diverted to these depressions to slowly soak into the ground.

Do not think of a rain garden as a pond that does not hold water very well. Think of it as a true garden in every sense of the word. It is not a landscape feature but a critical component of the functionality and beauty of the landscape. Choose plants that can tolerate both occasional flooding and fairly extreme drought. Fortunately, we have many southeast natives that fit the bill very well because many of them have had a feast or famine relationship with water for a very long time. Because of this long standing weather pattern many native plants have become adapted to these environmental conditions. However, not all native plants will thrive in these conditions so you must do a little research before choosing your plants. Native plants fill niches within our environment so look for those plants that naturally grow in the light and soil conditions you have or will create within a rain garden. Do not forget about the many tried and true non-native plants that also grow well under these conditions.

Many books are available to help you make the right plant choices but for a more comprehensive look at this topic I strongly recommend Rain Gardening in the South, by Helen Kraus and Anne Spafford. As the name implies this book focuses on strategies as well as plants that work for southern conditions. The plant lists are great even though there are many plants that would work that are not included and a plant or two I would avoid that are included, such as Japanese Flowering Apricot. However, the information on design is well worth the modest cost of this book. Even though rain gardens are low tech they are not simple given that they are a small ecosystem unto themselves. Therefore, careful attention to design is important to make certain it functions as intended. For instance, you do not want to build a mosquito haven and this must be addressed early to avoid costly “do over’s”.

Fall is an excellent time to build a rain garden and an even better time to establish trees, shrubs and many perennials that may be used. It won’t rain forever, so start working on your plans and when it dries out get your shovel and go to work. Don’t forget to call before you dig to avoid costly and potentially dangerous encounters with underground utilities. For help locating buried utilities contact “Alabama One Call”. For further information on building your own rain garden visit the Alabama Cooperative Extension System web site and type in rain garden in the search box at the top.

Image by North Carolina State University

Rain Water Harvesting

Question: We have had an abundance of rain this spring but I know I will wish I had stored some of it for the hotter and drier weather that is soon to come. Is it difficult and costly to install a cistern system to store water?

Answer: Cisterns have been used for centuries and the technology is well developed. We in the Southeast have not taken advantage of these systems as much as our neighbors to the west for many reasons. Cheap and plentiful water not to mention our fairly high average rainfall are the main reasons. Water is still pretty cheap considering it is necessary to sustain life but the cost has gone up dramatically over the past several years. A large percentage of potable water is used for landscape purposes and this must come to an end if we continue to increase in population in the Southeast. Cisterns offer a great opportunity to capture rain water during the rainy periods for later use in the landscape or possibly to even wash clothes or flush commodes.

Cisterns can vary tremendously in cost depending on size and desired appearance. If you want to try rain water harvesting on the cheap I would suggest you start with a simple rain barrel attached to your gutter downspout. A 55 gallon drum barrel can be attached in a couple hours with a few simple tools at a cost of fifty to a hundred dollars depending on how much of a “do it yourselfer” you are.

A rain barrel will not provide enough water to maintain a thirsty lawn or a large garden but would provide an inexpensive drink for a container garden or a small vegetable or flower garden. If the barrel is above the area to be watered or you are just filling up a watering can you will only need the help of gravity to water your plants. However, a small submersible pump can be dropped into the tank to pump the needed water out through a water hose to any part of the landscape.

Larger cisterns can be much more expensive but can be designed to provide all of your irrigation needs and some of your non potable water needs in the home. These systems may consist of large plastic, concrete or metal tanks that can be either above or below ground. You can even purchase large water bags that are flat when empty and expand as they fill. These bags can be stored under a porch in a basement or even in the crawl space of a home.

If you plan to irrigate a large area and you want enough water stored to do the job you will need to do some math. North Carolina State University has a great web site with lots of rain water harvesting information to help design a large system and to calculate the estimated time it will take to recoup your investment.

On a smaller scale the Alabama Cooperative Extension System will conduct a Rain Water Harvesting workshop at the Birmingham Botanical Gardens on July 14th , from 1:00 – 3:00 PM. This workshop will cover the basics of rain water harvesting and demonstrate the conversion of a 55 gallon drum into a ready to use rain barrel.

Cockroaches

Question: What can I do about the large cockroaches invading my house?

Answer: Cockroaches are problems to homeowners, and they may transfer diseases or cause allergic reaction. Some cockroaches live their entire lives inside homes or buildings. These are referred to as domestic cockroaches and the primary example is German cockroaches. The larger cockroaches like you are seeing live both inside and outside. The main species are the American cockroach, oriental cockroaches, and the smokybrown cockroach. They often move indoors when the weather outside becomes too cold, too hot, too wet, or too dry. Though they normally do not survive well inside, the American and oriental cockroaches can make a good living and successfully breed indoors if they can find an area with enough moisture and food.

Here are some tips for inspecting and managing these pest from Dr. Xing Ping Hu, Extension Entomolgy Specialist from Auburn University.

The best time to inspect is just after sunset when roaches become active. Inspection should start with checking the building exterior. Roaches may hide in cracks and crevices on outside walls and foundations, under siding and weep holes/openings around pipes, wire, and cables where they enter buildings.

Check landscaping and building surroundings: Since roaches like moist and shady areas, inspect around garbage cans and dumpster area. Check areas under trees and shrubs that have lots of leaf litter or mulch. Also, check rotting stumps or logs on the ground, wood piles and tree holes, compost or debris piles, planters and pots near the foundation of the building. Sewers are another place you should not miss, especially for the American cockroach that often lives and breeds in sewers and can invade buildings directly from the sewer system.

Check above, too. These cockroaches also can be found under roof overhangs and in roof gutters where they live and feed on collected leaves and debris.

The key to successful management involves an integrated approach of prevention, exclusion and pesticide usage. The following six-step program will greatly reduce your problem with these larger cockroach species.

One, when cockroaches are found on the exterior, treat the cracks and crevices where they are hiding with a residual insecticide. Use liquid insecticides or granular insecticides in infested sites around the foundation, especially around windows, doors and other entry points. Treat infested cracks and crevices with a liquid residual or dust based insecticide.


Two, make sure cracks and crevices are then caulked or sealed. Seal openings around windows, doors, vents, pipes and electrical conduits.

Three, install door sweeps, thresholds and weather seals on doors.


Four, reduce outside lighting and/or use yellow instead of white bulbs.

Five, move stacks of firewood, lumber, stones, etc., away from the homes foundation. Clean gutters and avoid heavy mulching around the foundation. Also, dead tree stumps and debris piles that can’t be moved should be treated with a granular bait insecticide.

Finally, apply a regular perimeter barrier insecticide treatment to keep these cockroaches from moving into the home.

Native Azaleas

Question: My neighbor has a type of azalea that has a light pink bloom, it is very fragrant and it does not have leaves on it yet. Do you know what kind of azalea this might be?

Answer: As a group these are called deciduous azaleas and are most likely native species. Although there are many native species of Azaleas the one your neighbor has is likely Rhododendron canescens, the Piedmont Azalea. Native azaleas such as the Piedmont Azalea, often called wild honeysuckle bush, are at least as beautiful as their non-native evergreen cousins and are much more fragrant. As a group they are greatly underused in the southern landscape. Some have unusual yellow to orange and orange-red flowers, such as the Florida Flame azalea. Most of them are either native to Alabama or will grow well in most areas of the state. The individual florets are trumpet shaped and usually borne in large terminal clusters. The sweet smelling blooms have led to the common name, wild honeysuckle bush. Identification of native azaleas can be difficult because of the similarities between species. Natural hybridization has complicated the matter by producing many intermediate forms with unusual flower colors.

Many southerners first encountered native deciduous azaleas while walking in the woods. There they may have spotted the pink, fragrant, delicate flowers of the Piedmont azalea mentioned above or the orange-yellow blooms of the Florida Flame azalea (Rhododendron austrinum). Maybe it was the white, yellow- blotched and lemon scented flowers of our namesake Alabama Azalea (Rhododendron alabamense). Alabama Azalea while not the showiest flower may be the most fragrant of all the native azaleas.

Deciduous azaleas prefer moist, sandy, well-drained soil. Morning sun with afternoon shade will enhance blooming and reduce excessive drying. Pine straw or pine bark mulch should be added to protect the shallow root system. A light application of slow release azalea fertilizer just after blooming should be sufficient to keep them growing and blooming. If your soil is not well drained consider planting on a raised bed or individual mounds.As landscape specimens, in woody areas, deciduous azaleas are a wonderful addition to any landscape. They do best when left unpruned and allowed to maintain an open natural habit. Deciduous azaleas are not always available in nurseries but ask for them and this will encourage nurseries to stock a wider selection. Some plants that may be more readily available are native hybrids that were developed for superior quality. A friend of mine in Mobile, Tom Dodd, III has developed several of these hybrids that he calls the Confederate series. These hybrids are well adapted to our climate, have larger blooms than the native azaleas and they're all fragrant. Some names to look for in this series include 'Admiral Semmes' that has big, fragrant yellow flowers and 'Col. Mosby' with large fragrant deep pink flowers that fade to light pink with a yellow blotch. At the front door of the Birmingham Botanical Gardens, General N.B. Forrest is now in full bloom. It has large ruffled, red-orange blooms in clusters that show off in late April. If you want to look at pictures of these and other great native plants go to the Dodd Natives site.

Asian Lady Beetle

Question: My house has been invaded by lady beetles. They are coming out of the wall by the hundreds. Why are they here and what can I do about them?

Answer: Lady beetles are normally considered beneficial insects because they feed on pest insects such as aphids in gardens and landscapes. However, the multicolored Asian lady beetle (which is the one you have) can become a serious household problem. These beetles have been reported to congregate on the sides of buildings by the thousands. They will move inside if given the opportunity, and will stain carpeting, wallpaper, and anything else and they stink badly when crushed. However, these beetles are not poisonous, do not sting, are not carriers of disease, and do not eat wood.

The Asian lady beetle was originally released as a biological control agent for pecan aphids in California. They have a very wide host range and can feed on rose, apple, poplar, conifer, and crape myrtle aphids. Although they can be a nuisance overall they are quite beneficial.
The beetles seem to be attracted to light, reflective surfaces such as large windows, or light-colored walls and trim. Beetles usually are found on the sunniest areas of buildings. In Japan, Asian lady beetles overwinter in the cracks and crevices of mountain rocks. In the United States, they use buildings as protection from winter. They seem to be attracted to blue and gray colors that look like the mountainous rocks in their native habitat. The beetles begin to invade homes through cracks and crevices during the fall (around October or November in Alabama). People with log homes may find this beetle particularly troublesome due to the beetles' preference to dwell in cracks and crevices. Common overwintering sites include door and window frames, porches, underneath siding, roof shingles, wall voids, attics, and soffits.

This time of year, as the temperature increases, so will beetle activity. They have been in your home all winter and now are looking for a way out. As they try to escape, beetles can be found along large glass windows and in light fixtures because they are attracted to light, and around doors, baseboards, and drop ceilings.

Control involves a multi-pronged approach. Prevention is the key to keeping this lady beetle from getting into homes. A space less than 1/8 inch will allow lady beetles entry. To prevent entry you can use many of the same techniques that can save you energy as well: Caulk cracks along windows, doors, or other portals of entry. Seal and screen attic vents and install tight fitting door sweeps. Gaps under glass sliding doors may be sealed with foam weather stripping. Also, seal utility openings such as pipes, dryer vents, and cable TV wiring ports, with caulk, steel wool, or other mesh.

Once they are indoors chemicals are generally not recommended. The beetles have to be sprayed directly or walk over treated surfaces to obtain a toxic dose. Vacuuming or sweeping is the first line of defense. Do not crush the beetles as they can stain and they smell horrible. If you can empty the vacuum contents or sweepings outside some of the beetles may survive and pay you back by eating some of the bad bugs in your garden this summer.

Original photo by: Timothy J. Gibb, Extension Entomologist, Department of Entomology, Purdue University

Spring Lawn Care in the South

Question:
I have a lawn weed problem and I was wondering if I should use a weed killer and herbicide blended product?

Answer:
The so called “crab grass/weed preventer with fertilizer” products are marketed as convenient to use but that convenience may come at a price. The first cost is the product itself which can be quite expensive. Another cost may be the decreased health of your turf. Those products which contain fertilizer plus pre-emergent weed killers must be applied before warm season weeds (like crabgrass) germinate, which may be in mid to late February, in order to effectively kill those weeds. Unfortunately, that is much too early to apply fertilizer for all grasses except fescue or bluegrass. When fertilizer is applied that early the grass may start to grow much too soon if we have a couple of weeks of warm weather. Past experience has taught us (remember the Easter weekend freeze of 2007) that a late frost can do a lot of damage to warm season turf grasses. Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede and St. Augustine grass are all tropical grasses that are much better adapted to heat than cold. These grasses can be easily “tricked” into growing too early in the spring. This can be true for any warm season grass but according to Jim Jacobi, Extension Pathologist, it is especially damaging to Centipede grass.

The more prevalent “weed and feed” products have a fertilizer plus a post-emergent weed killer. These products are normally applied to young developing weeds. In most years these weeds are most susceptible to herbicides during the same time the grass is in the “green up” stage. This is the correct time to fertilize but it can be a very bad time to apply herbicides. The reason it can be bad is because warm season grasses are most easily damaged or stressed at this stage of their growth.

You may be wondering if there is a correct time at all to use “weed and feed” products and that is a very good question. Those products that contain a post-emergent weed killer and fertilizer blends may have a window of usefulness after spring green up when late germinating summer weeds are small. For instance, if you use a pre-emergent weed killer (without fertilizer) in mid to late February it may wear off enough that some later weeds emerge. These weeds could be controlled with a “weed and feed” in late May or early June after the grass has past the stressful green up phase.

There is a correct way to approach weed control and proper fertilization but it involves an extra bit of effort. Pre-emergent weed killers may be used by themselves at the time just mentioned and fertilizer should be applied by itself in late April to early May. Fertilization type and amounts should be based on soil test results not guess work and this is a good time to have a test done to add lime if needed and find the correct fertilizer for your lawn.

I have had people tell me they have done it the “wrong” way for many years without a problem. My response has always been I know people who live very unhealthy lifestyles and live to a ripe old age but we seldom hear about all those who die young because the former is the exception not the rule. For instance, we regularly see soil test reports with excessively high amounts of phosphorus and potassium. These lawns may go for a long time with no problem but problems may arise at some point down the road. Even if you never see severe problems you are at the very least wasting fertilizer and possibly polluting ground water, streams and rivers. Also, we regularly see lawns that are fertilized too early get hammered by a late frost. If you fertilize too early the law of averages will eventually catch up with the luckiest gardener. Lastly, we see turf with unexplained lack of vigor and poor health problems that may have been severely weakened by a poorly timed herbicide application. For information on proper care of your turf grass visit the publications area with the Alabama Cooperative Extension System.

Pyracantha

Question: Can you suggest a good screen plant that will deter people from easily accessing my back yard? I do not want a fence but would like a little added security.

Answer: The plant that pops up in my mind is a pyracantha. Winter is often when I think of this plant because it has showy fruit until the cedar wax wings and other birds clean them off. Pyracantha is a member of the rose family and, like its cousin, has an abundance of thorns. The thorns are much larger and more painful to encounter than roses. My dad always said nothing will keep determined intruders out, but pain will do a good job deterring ‘honest’ folks.
Although pyracantha can be maintained as a four or five foot shrub, it would be better if you did not have to prune it very often due to the aforementioned pain. The ultimate size of most varieties will be about 10’ by 10’, so it does not take many plants to make a living fence. The plants can be planted somewhat closer for quicker fill but remember to allow plenty of depth for them to spread. They are fast growers that are adapted to many soil types, except poorly drained soil.

Winter is a great time to plant them. Dig the plant hole as wide as practical but at least twice as wide as the root ball. To avoid plant settling to a position deeper than desired, do not dig any deeper than the root ball. I always like to pull the plant from the container and wash off most of the bark from around the roots. This will allow you to spread the roots out laterally in the wide planting hole and will prevent air pockets which would develop when the bark slowly decays after planting.

The first year after planting pyracantha will need supplemental watering to get them well established, but once established they are pretty tough plants. Keep the area around the plants weed free and do not use weed eaters around the base. Three inches of mulch over the root system can go a long way in helping control weeds and retain moisture. Do not pile mulch thickly around the base of the plants.

Although pyracantha is not a native plant it is widely adapted and the native birds and wildlife do love the fruit they produce. Pyracantha can also be used in floral arrangements to add a splash of color and a distinct texture. Most varieties have bright red berries but there are some yellow and orange fruited varieties available. If the standard sized plant is too big for the area you have in mind there is a compact selection called Red Elf. This might be a good choice for underneath a window to deter an intruder or peeping Tom.Two serious problems on pyracantha are fire blight, a bacterial disease that can kill the plant, and scab, a fungal disease which causes defoliation and turns fruit a dark, sooty color. To minimize problems, choose disease-resistant selections such as ‘Apache,’ ‘Fiery Cascade,’ ‘ Mohave,’ ‘Navaho,’ ‘Pueblo,’ ‘Rutgers,’ ‘Shawnee’ and ‘Teton.’ For further information on growing this useful and beautiful plant visit here.

Mistletoe

Question: Can you tell me about the harmful properties of mistletoe and whether or not it is poisonous to people?

Answer: Mistletoe is an interesting group of plants with an interesting history. On a worldwide basis mistletoe may generically refer to any of more than 200 species of semi-parasitic shrubs found worldwide. However, according to Curtis J. Hansen, Curator Freeman Herbarium, Auburn University there is primarily only one species of mistletoe that dominates the eastern United States and that is the “Oak Mistletoe”, or scientifically speaking, Phoradendron leucarpum. It sounds very romantic in Greek but literally means "tree thief". Maybe that’s where the idea of “stealing” a kiss under the mistletoe originated.

All mistletoes are parasitic, meaning they grow into a host tree and "steal" nutrients for growth. However, they are also green, so they can produce some of their own nutrients through photosynthesis. While most mistletoes don't outright kill their tree-host, they can weaken them over time and ultimately be the cause of tree death. As the name indicates, Oak Mistletoe is found mostly in oak trees, but may also be found in other hardwoods. This particular species isn't known to grow in pines or conifers in our area. Mistletoes are particularly easy to spot at this time of year when the leaves of the hardwood trees have fallen. In fact, you may find many plants in full fruit with little white berries, for female plants and male plants that are in full flower. There are separate female and male plants within this species.

The parasitic properties of mistletoe are often duplicated by the men I see hovering around the sprigs at Christmas parties. Rather than true roots, the plant has extensions called holdfasts that grip the host plant. With the holdfast the plants take what they want from the host plant (again not unlike the aforementioned men).

In the South, tiny yellow flowers bloom on the evergreen mistletoe from fall into winter. The familiar white berries begin to form soon after pollination and resemble little packets of glue around tiny indigestible seeds. Although eating mistletoe berries may potentially be lethal for humans, birds seem to be immune to any toxicity.

The immunity of birds to mistletoe's poisonous qualities is essential to the welfare of the plant. The dispersal and propagation of mistletoe is largely dependent on birds that eat berries but do not digest the seeds. Studies suggest that seeds are most likely to survive and grow if a bird deposits them on the same species of tree on which the parent plant lived.
The use of mistletoe as a romantic lure stems from England at least as early as the 1500s. A version of the tradition persists today in secular Christmas decorations. Mistletoe has an interesting story behind its name. Several hundred years ago, it was thought that the mistletoe plant was formed spontaneously from bird droppings. Of course no one thought to look inside the bird droppings for a concealed seed. However, due to this error, the plant was given the name mistletoe which translates literally in English to “dung-on-a-twig.” I think we should stick with the name mistletoe because “meet me under the dung-on-a-twig” just doesn’t set the right festive mood.

Choose a Christmas Tree

Question: I love to use a real Christmas tree but the needles are always a mess. What type tree has the least problem with needle shedding?

Answer: The quick answer is "the fresher the tree, the better it will hold its needles." The only way to know you have a freshly cut tree is to cut it yourself, or in my case, I just point to the tree and tell one of my sons to cut it for me. If you buy a tree from a local "choose and cut farm," it probably doesn’t matter what species you purchase. The key to keeping the needles attached is to get the fresh cut tree stump into water as quickly as possible.

Choosing a pre-cut tree from a sales lot can be a little riskier than cutting the tree yourself, but if you follow these tips your chance of getting a good tree will improve greatly. Purchase a tree as soon as trees are available even if you don’t plan to decorate it for several days. The sooner you can get the tree in water the longer it will last. Most of the trees on sales lots were cut at the same time, so the longer they stay on the lot without water, the less likely the y will even take water up when they are placed in home tree stands with water reservoirs. Look at the tree trunk near the base and if you see splitting, the tree most likely has dried so severely it will not absorb water.

Look for a tree with a healthy, green appearance and few dead or browning needles. Run your hand along a branch to see if needles seem fresh and flexible. Needles should definitely not pull free easily. If possible, bump the base of the tree on the ground. You should expect some of the old dead needles to fall off, but if green needles also fall off, the tree is not very fresh.

Once you have chosen that perfect tree and have arrived back home safely, you should make a fresh cut a couple inches above the original cut. This removes any clogged wood that would prevent water uptake. If you are not ready to place the tree indoors you may store in a shady area outdoors or in an unheated room or basement. Regardless of where you locate the tree, make sure to check the water reservoir frequently and keep it filled a couple inches or more above the tree’s base. I have not seen any research that proves any concoction added to the water works significantly better than plain tap water.

Another tip to consider involves tree location in the home. Keeping the tree away from heat sources such as air ducts, wood stoves, and fireplaces will prolong the freshness and reduce the risk of fire. Make certain all lights and extension cords are in good working order and turn lights off when the tree is not attended. Because our homes are much drier in the winter when the heating system is operating, a small room humidifier can be good for you, your house plants and Christmas tree.

Some trees are just naturally better at retaining their needles. Douglas fir, Eastern White Pine, Fraser fir, Leyland Cypress, Scotch pine and Virginia pine are considered to have excellent needle retention. Freshness, however, is the key to needle retention.
If you would like some additional tips and a list of the pros and cons of the most popular species, click here.

Winterizing Warm Season Grasses is a No No

Question: The lawn care company recently applied an application of “winterizer” fertilizer to my Bermuda grass. Do you recommend winterizer fertilizer on warm season grasses?

Answer: If this is a well established lawn it is doubtful you need a fall application of fertilizer unless a soil test indicated a low level of potassium. Unfortunately, there are many products on the market sold as winterizer fertilizer. Cool season grasses such as fescue do most of their growing in the fall and spring and they need nitrogen to grow. However, many of these products are also used on warm season grass. Fall nitrogen application can be damaging to warm season grasses. Instead of increasing the cold hardiness, the opposite effect results. A warm fall will lead to continued vegetative growth which sets the plants up for cold damage. Check with your lawn care company and ask for the analysis of the fertilizer used. If the first number is 5% or below, it probably won’t hurt but it would be better if no nitrogen is applied to Bermuda and other warm season grasses after August.

I would suggest you have your soil tested to see if you need potassium or not. If you fertilize during the summer months it is very doubtful extra potassium in the fall will provide any benefit. However, if you do apply fall fertilizer, always apply it onto dry foliage to reduce the likelihood of salt burn.

A soil test provides a wealth of information and can be done for only $7 in Alabama and many state Extension offices offer similar services. Fall is a great time to test the soil because the lab is not as busy and if you need lime you have time to get it out on the lawn before spring growth starts. The lime will slowly move into the soil with winter rains and the pH will gradually rise in time for the first spring growth spurt. Once you receive your test results you may want to contact your local Extension office to talk with a horticulturist about your test results.
I have seen many test results that indicated an excessively high level of phosphorus and potassium. Phosphorus does not leach from the soil very quickly and it can build up to the point that no phosphorus will be needed for many years. Potassium can become so high that it interferes with the uptake of other elements such as magnesium and can result in a lighter green turf color. Also, be aware that an excessively high rate of potassium fertilizer can cause foliar burn.

Fall Is For Planting

Question: I am planning on planting some trees and shrubs this fall and would appreciate some planting tips to insure success.

Answer: Most of the time I get questions after newly planted trees and shrubs start to die, but I much prefer offering pre-planting advice to avoid problems.

Fall is the best time to plant most perennial plants including trees and shrubs and even most herbaceous perennials. The keys to success start even before planting perennials in the ground. It is always advisable to do a little research on the front end. There are some important questions you should answer before planting anything. One, are the plants I have in mind adapted to our climate? And I don’t mean adapted just to cold, but also to heat which is often as important as cold in our area. Two, will the plants tolerate the drainage within my soil? Poor drainage causes more plant death in heavy clay soils than drought does. Third, is the site chosen adequate for continued growth of the chosen plants? You should always think about the mature size when choosing the planting location and plant material.

The actual planting process will determine in large part the future growth and possibly whether or not a plant survives at all. There are at least two myths about planting woody plants that reduce your chance of success.

The first myth is that you should amend the planting hole with loose organic matter. If you have a lot of clay in your soil you should not use any organic soil amendments. There are several potential problems with adding organic matter and they all revolve around water. If organic matter is added to a hole surrounded by heavy clay soil, the water movement is drastically altered. You will have one of two problems. Either the water will not move out of the hole after rainfall, causing a bathtub effect, or the organic matter will dry and not re-wet well. Both of these scenarios will lead to root death. Plant wilting is not a good indicator of whether the soil is too wet or too dry because drought and excessive water both cause wilt.

The second myth is that you should not disturb the root ball coming out of the container. This myth relates to the previous myth, but needs some further explanation. Most plants are grown in containers at the nursery in a very light ground pine bark mix. This mix is great for growing shrubs and trees in the nursery but can present terrible problems in the landscape. If this loose bark is allowed to remain intact, the water movement issues described above still apply, with the added problem of air pocket development around the roots as the bark decomposes. Therefore, it is best to gently wash most of the loose bark material off the plant until it is, for all practical purposes, a bare root plant. This may involve pulling the roots out if they have started winding around the root ball. If necessary you can prune or slice these roots to help make this job easier, but try to leave as many roots intact as possible.

The planting hole should be shallow and wide. The depth only needs to be as deep as the root ball, but the hole should be two to three times the width of the longest lateral roots. Look for the uppermost lateral root to determine the planting depth. This lateral root should be at grade or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Make a small ring of raised soil to hold water near where the outermost roots extend. Keep this area moist at all times for the first several weeks and then gradually decrease watering frequency and increase watering depth to encourage deeper rooting. Mulching the root area can give you a false sense of security about whether the plant has adequate water. It is very important to check the root area frequently to avoid drying. Do not apply mulch more than a couple inches thick.

A couple other post plant care tips are to keep the area around trees and shrubs weed and grass free, widening the weed free area as the plant grows. Also, avoid using weed whackers or mowers near the plant base.

Sweet Tea Olive

Fall is a great time to visit the Birmingham Botanical Gardens for many reasons but the fragrance coming from sweet tea olives is highest on my list. Tea olives are in the plant Genus Osmanthus which comes from the Greek and means “fragrant (osma) flower (anthus)” and it certainly lives up to the name. Tea olive, as the name indicates, belongs to the Olive Family (Oleaceae) along with numerous jasmines which are also very fragrant. The usually white blooms are small and not extremely showy and I am not surprised you could not tell where the fragrance originated. Even though individual blooms are small some cultivars have clusters large enough to add some floral interest. Tea olives are very nice evergreen shrubs with holly like foliage. You can easily tell the two apart even when not in bloom by looking at the leaf arrangement. Hollies have leaves arranged alternately down the stem and tea olives have an opposite arrangement.

There is a large planting of Osmanthus x fortunei 'Fruitlandii' at the BBG that makes a wonderful screen planting that is a pleasure to walk near. The mature height of tea olives may vary from six to thirty feet depending on the species and cultivar. I lived in Mobile in the past where the “fragrant tea olive” Osmanthus fragrans was the most commonly planted species. It is less cold tolerant but will survive in central (possibly north) Alabama in a protected micro-climate. It would be best to locate this plant on the south or southwest side of a structure. Much like camellias the main risk from cold is the rapid freezing and thawing action that is worse with a morning sun exposure. As the name seems to indicate it is the most fragrant of all the tea olives and therefore may be worth the risk of occasional cold damage. It also has the longest bloom period with blooms possible in every month with the letter “R” included.

In general all the tea olives will grow in full sun to part shade but in the central southeastern United States I would suggest a site with a break from the afternoon sun. Once established they are fairly drought tolerant but it may take a couple years to become established. Fall is a great time to plant and will require less care than spring or summer plantings. Choose a well drained area with slightly acidic soil for best results.

Tea olives are really quite easy to care for once established and have very few pest problems. If pest problems do occur it is probably due to stress from poor soil conditions or drought. Scale insects may flare up from time to time but can be controlled with horticultural oil sprays. Minimal pruning is needed unless they get too large. If you do prune them do so in the late winter to avoid removing the flower buds which form on the new growth each spring and summer. The exception to this rule would be the Delavay tea olive (Osmanthus delavayi) and our native Devilwood (Osmanthus americanus) which bloom in the spring and should be pruned just after blooming like other spring blooming plants.

Devilwood is the only native tea olive and is native to swamps and stream banks in the southern US including south Alabama. The name comes from the extremely hard wood which is a “devil” to split and work. The leaves are larger and less holly like than other tea olives. Like other tea olives the flowers are quite fragrant but they occur in early spring on last year’s growth. This native plant is more tolerant of wet soil conditions but is adaptable to most Alabama soils. It would be a great choice for a rain garden because it tolerates frequent flooding and can take the drier times between rain events.

Regardless of which tea olive you plant you are sure to be enchanted by the sweet aroma they produce and yes they can be used in tea.

Pruning Encore Azaleas

Many people ask how to prune Encore Azaleas and a picture is worth a 1000 words - so take a look.

Wooly Bugger of a Problem

Question: There is a tree in our yard that has rough warty bark and makes a small fruit about the size of a cherry. The problem is it is dripping a sticky substance on everything underneath its limbs. Do you have any idea what tree this is and what might be the problem?

Answer: The tree is probably a native hackberry or sugarberry tree, but the fuzzy white pest causing the sticky mess is not native. The pest is called the Asian Wooly Hackberry aphid and was first detected in North America on hackberry trees in Georgia in 1996 and in Alabama in 1998. It is not a severe problem every year, but it appears to be a problem this year. The aphid appears to be restricted to native hackberries or their relatives. Although the trees seem to survive the pest flair ups fine, the aphids produce large quantities of the sticky substance called honeydew. As you observed, this creates a sticky mess and promotes the growth of black sooty mold on leaves and on surfaces beneath infested trees. In August and September it can look like a mini snow storm near these trees because the aphids look like cotton fuzz balls. Although this tree is a very tough tree for urban environments, the honeydew can be an annoying problem in residential and business districts where the tree may be used to shade parking lots, walkways or patios.

Some municipalities out west have been treating all hackberry trees in parks and parkway strips with a systemic insecticide called imidacloprid, which is an effective, but relatively expensive insecticide. Researchers at the University of California have had good results with this insecticide even with rates as low as one eighth of the label recommendations. Since it is a fairly expensive product you might try these lower rates and just provide adequate water to make certain what you apply is not wasted. Imidacloprid can provide season long control and can be applied during the growing season after you notice an early infestation in the spring. Treatments are applied as a systemic insecticide, meaning that the product is taken up by the roots of the plant and spreads through all the tissues of the plant. The material may be mixed in a bucket of water and poured around the trunk. It is too late to treat trees now and it won’t be long before the leaves fall off anyway. Just to play it safe don’t use this product near edible plants since it is taken up by plant roots.

The fruit is a favorite fall treat of many birds and other wildlife. This is another reason to use the lowest possible effective rate of insecticides so that the pesticide will be out of the plant by fruiting time. Since there is no research to tell us if the chemical is totally gone by harvest time, I would suggest you avoid eating the fruit.

I talked with the director of the Plant Diagnostic Lab here at the Hanna Environmental Center, Dr. Jim Jacobi and he said “the wooly hackberry aphid does not cause appreciable damage to tree health but from time to time can be quite a nuisance. I would not plant this tree in an area near a parking area or patio, but it can still be used as a specimen tree in a natural area or at the fringes of your property where it won’t cause a mess and can still provide food for wildlife and act as a host plant for at least three species of butterflies that develop on the foliage.”
For more information visit the following web address: http://msucares.com/ and search for Wooly Hackberry Aphid. A great detailed article will be the first link that pops up.

Central South Native Plant Conference

Birmingham Botanical Gardens will host the Central South Native Plant Conference at which I have a small speaking part.

Every three years gardeners, landscape architects, and plant enthusiasts of all kinds are treated to one of the most extensive seminars in the nation, the Central South Native Plant Conference. The symposium, whose theme is “Tough Native Habitats”, will be hosted by Birmingham Botanical Gardens October 17 and 18.

Held about every 3 years since 1989, the conference “is a place for people to learn and to share their knowledge about our regional biological heritage” says program chair Jan Midgley. The focus of the weekend is native plants that call Alabama home. Birmingham Botanical Gardens plays host the 2008 conference, whose goal is to foster awareness, appreciation and increased usage of plants native to the Southeast.

Highlights include an outstanding line up of Southeastern native (and invasive) plant experts in a variety of lectures, break-out sessions, field trips and tours. From novice to expert, everyone is welcome but you need to pre-register. The complete program and registration information is available at www.bbgardens.org . You may also contact Shelly Busby, Special Events Coordinator at Birmingham Botanical Gardens for tickets or with any questions by calling her at 205-414-3965.

Ant Invasion

Question: My house is being invaded by ants. We do not leave food stuff or dirty dishes out so what is causing this ant explosion?

Answer: When outdoor temperatures get hotter and conditions get drier ant problems get markedly worse. The ants are most likely Argentine ants but during an extreme drought fire ants may also come indoors. Both travel in trails into kitchens, offices and bathrooms searching for food and/or water. Even if you are super clean they may come indoors in search of water.
Argentine ants which are small, just 1/8 inch long are very consistent in size. They are native to South America. They were accidentally introduced into the United States more than 100 years ago in New Orleans coffee shipments. Fire ants are likewise South American natives and came in sometime later through Mobile Alabama. Fire ants will often be quite variable in size from 1/16 inch to 1/4 inch long, they have reddish brown bodies and black abdomens and they also bite!
Entomologists say you can reduce your chances of having ants in your home but even the cleanest homes may become infested. To discourage them, rinse all drink cans before placing them into the garbage or recycling bin and empty garbage containers often. And, don't leave any food or drinks out for any length of time. Argentine ants love sugar and will show up to dine on it, literally by the thousands, overnight.
For Argentine ants most experts don't recommend using contact insect killers. These products may make you feel better because you can watch the suckers die in real time but you'll never get rid of them all. For long term controls of both types of ants you have to kill the queen or queens. For Argentine ants the ant bait stations or gels work the best. They don’t give you that immediate satisfaction of a contact killer but the results are much longer lasting.
If you have fire ants the control should involve a little more effort in finding the source. Treating outside will help control ants foraging inside from outdoor colonies. Although unlikely it is possible the ants are nesting in a wall. In this case, a contact insecticide should be used at the nest source and it may require assistance from a professional pest control operator to locate the nest. More likely, the fire ants are in an outdoor mound and foraging for food or water indoors. You might say they live in the suburbs and commute in to work. If you decide to treat indoors make sure the product you select is labeled for use indoors. Read and follow the directions on the product label for best results. Be sure to keep products away from children and pets. Again, eliminating the outdoor colonies will be critical to ridding your home of this menacing pest.

For more information visit the newest nationwide Extension website: www.extension.org and check out the fire ant portion of the site. This site has a wealth of information that you can trust has been well researched and is very up to date.

Spurweed is a Pain (click title for audio file)

Most of the time homeowners view weeds as a nuisance in lawns, but for most, these plants only cause ‘mental anguish’ – not physical. Well, spurweed (also called lawn burrweed) is a lawn pest well known throughout the warmer-climates of the south for its potential to inflict genuine physical pain to people and pets. Dr. Jeff Derr, Extension Weed Specialist at Virginia Tech, has indicated that spurweed is increasing in importance as a serious lawn weed every year throughout Virginia’s Tidewater region, and it has long been noted as a serious pest in the our area of the deep south here in Alabama.
This winter annual broadleaf plant has opposite leaves that are twice divided into very narrow lobes. It looks a lot like parsley in appearance but if you have any questions regarding its identification, you probably want to contact your local extension office for assistance.
Spurweed becomes a major problem in the landscape in mid-late spring when it flowers and sets fruit that are surrounded by razor sharp spines. It is a nuisance to pets, with the sharp spines potentially getting lodged into their paws. And all it will take is one step on this weed by someone walking across the lawn either in bare feet or loose fitting sandals to quickly identify that the weed is present— everyone will know from the shriek of pain! Of course, spurweed on athletic fields is even of more concern for athletes that might be doing a lot of sliding or tackling as part of normal play in spring sports.
There is little that can (or should) be done about spurweed after it has flowered and produced its troublesome spines. If you have it, anticipate that it will be producing plenty of seed to support next year's population and make a note on your calendar for the next fall to treat IF you identify it in the turf. Spurweed can be controlled by an application of many fall preemergent herbicides applied in September. Field research trials have shown excellent results in the fall pre-emergent applications of isoxaben, sold as Gallery and Green Light Portrait. This chemical is specific to broadleaf weed control, making it a compatible chemical for most for fall lawn seeding programs. You can also control spurweed quite easily with most two and three-way phenoxy broadleaf post-emergent herbicides (products containing 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP or MCPA etc.) if you treat the weed while it is young and actively growing in the fall or early winter.
This is one of the pests that causes much more concern than just a disruption of turf uniformity and appearance-- it is a pest that actually inflicts physical pain if not managed appropriately.

Originally prepared by Mike Goatley, Virginia Tech with some modification by Tony Glover, Alabama Cooperative Extension System

June Bugs (click for audio file)

Question: My yard has been invaded by green bugs that are about twice the size of Japanese beetles. They buzz around my kids and pets and I am concerned about one of them being bitten or stung.
Answer: The pest is likely a June beetle or as I called them growing up, a June bug. Green June beetles are velvet green with orange or rust stripes along the outer margins of the wing covers. Beetles can range from ½ to 1 inch in length and as you described, they are twice as large as their more destructive relative, the Japanese beetle. Peak flights for this insect started in late June and will continue another couple weeks.
The adults out buzzing around in your yard are probably seeking a mate or there is a good food source that they are attracted to. The adults primarily feed on over ripe fruit but sometimes they feed on leaves of things like peach trees. Since they do have chewing mouthparts it may be possible to be bitten by them but more than likely if you feel something like a bite it is from their spiny legs and they don’t have a stinger. Even though they seem aggressive while buzzing around and I have been scared out of my wits when disturbing a group of them while picking peaches or blackberries I have never been bitten by them.
They will soon complete their lifecycle and lay eggs for a new generation. The eggs will develop into a grub that will develop and overwinter in the soil. These grubs are different from most grub species in the southeast in that they come out of the ground at night and move from one place to another. Even more unusual they crawl on their backs when moving. One of my kids used to do that as an infant so it may not be as unusual as I think. When disturbed the grubs curl up into a C-shape, much like my teenage girls do when I ask them to wash the dishes.
The adults can cause damage to the turf while nesting but it is normally not severe enough to treat with an insecticide. The grubs can actually be beneficial in the turf because small populations of them will aerate the soil while tunneling. However, large populations can cause excessive tunneling causing the grass roots to dry out and die in patches. If control of grubs appears warranted do so in August and September when the grubs are small, close to the surface and more susceptible to pesticides. Most recommended pesticides work best after an irrigation or a soaking rain.
I am not sure how wide spread this problem is in recent years because we get so many more calls about the dreaded Japanese beetle which causes much more damage to ornamental plants. Normally I don’t pay a lot of attention to what one or two folks say about pest numbers but if one of the people is your mother you better listen. In this case while visiting my mother in Cullman Alabama recently she asked me, “do you know, where have all the June bugs gone?” to which I responded, “No – but if you hum a few bars I may be able to pick it up”. After I picked myself up and brushed off a little I asked her what she meant and she swears she has not seen any June bugs since the Japanese beetles arrived a few years back. I would be interested to know if anyone else has observed a decline in June beetles around your home in the last few years. Send me an email with your observations to satisfy my mother’s curiosity. You may drop me a note or a question at gloveta@aces.edu . For more information and control options visit our web site at http://www.aces.edu/ and go to the publications area. We have two relevant publications you may want to read: “Biology and Control of the Green June Beetle” and “Controlling White Grubs on Lawns and Turf”.

Tomato Wilting

Question: Some of my tomato plants have wilted and died quickly and I noticed a white powdery substance on the base of the stem - any ideas?

Answer: The description you gave is very typical of "southern blight", also known as white mold and stem rot, and it is caused by the soil-borne fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. We have had numerous reports about this disease in the last few days. The disease is a common problem on vegetables, especially tomatoes, as well as most other broadleaf crops such as pepper, eggplant and beans. Plants of any age can be attacked if environmental conditions are suitable. Development of southern blight is favored by moist conditions and high temperatures (more than 85 degrees F).
Generally, the first above-ground symptoms are leaf yellowing and wilting of infected plants. The stem at the soil line often appears soft and sunken (cankered) and develops a brown to black discoloration both internally and externally. Under moist conditions, a white fungal growth can be seen on the lower stem near the soil surface; on fruit in contact with the soil; and on crop debris on the soil around the base of the plant. Spherical, light brown, mustard-seed size ( 1 to 2 mm) objects called sclerotia often form in the mycelium. Under dry conditions, fungal mycelium and sclerotia may not be visible. However, if southern blight is suspected, placing a section of the lower stem and a moistened paper towel in an enclosed plastic bag for 24 hours will stimulate formation of a white mat of fungal growth. This would be diagnostic for southern blight.

The fungus is spread as mycelium in infested organic matter or as sclerotia in infested soil. Infection usually takes place at the soil surface but may also occur below the soil line. The fungus may spread more than 3 feet through the soil and from plant to plant within a row. It is common to see five or six infected plants within a row killed. Sclerotia, produced on crop debris and dying plants, serve as inoculum for the next crop.

Control of southern blight is difficult to achieve when inoculum levels are high and environmental conditions favor its development. Rotations with crops such as corn, and grain sorghum will reduce disease. Rotations are most effective when tomatoes or other susceptible crops are not planted in the same area more than once every 3 to 4 years.

Deep-plowing the soil to bury crop debris and the fungus will also help reduce inoculum. Wider plant spacing to improve air movement and roguing infected plants will aid in reducing disease development and spread within a field. Adding copious amounts of organic matter may help as well. The information for this blog camer from the Alabama Cooperative Extension System - Tomato Wilt Disease publication.